Yesterday evening we were treated to a nice tasting of Argentine wines at the Four Seasons. I thought we were just getting tapas at an open restaurant, but instead we were the only ones in the breakfast room with a sous chef, a hotel manager and the sommelier. They treated us to a nice group of Argentine wines representing a larger range than either Ann or I expected.

After that we met up with our Argentine friends (Donatella and co) for dinner at one of the hippest places in town, Casa Cruz. I was throroughly underwhelmed by everything I ate, and since Donatella sent her food back, I wasn't the only one. The descriptions were intriguing and the ingredients were unusual, but in the end there were too many competing flavors in each dish. To me, the hip vibe didn't make up for it.

After that Ann and I went to the Confiteria Ideal, which is a famous place to go for milongas (tango social dances) and dance lessons. We are having lessons somewhere else on Tuesday, but this was still an impressive place to get inspired. There was an amazing mix of people; old and young, hipsters and those dressed bery casually; tourists and very obvious "regulars". We didn't stay all that long, but got to see a group of performances by a really awesome young couple, which I desperately tried to get a good photo of.

Today we had breakfast at the hotel, then went to their spa for massages (which were really great) and some downtime in the sauna and hamman, which is gorgeous and larger than lots of SF or NYC apartments.

We caught a cab to San Telmo, home of the city's most famous street fair and flea market. We had an unremarkable lunch at a French cafe and then walked through the packed streets, navigating between cheap handicrafts and awesome antiques, all to the tunes of local musicians.

It was pretty overcast today, and I didn't want to keep pulling out my camera in such a touristy area, so I didn't take any photos until we stumbled on a band composed entirely of accordionists and violinists. I bought their CD, so if you're curious, let me know.

After shopping around for several hours we went to La Boca, which is a colorful and touristy neighborhood that's a little rough-around-the-edges. We had a single drink there before heading back to the hotel for a brief respite, including a short workout at the gym.

Tonight we were supposed to have dinner at another hip joint, a sushi restaurant. However, I guess the place was closed, and so even though we had a reservation, Donatella beat us there and called to tell us that it wasn't going to happen and that we'd need to meet elsewhere. So we went to a place called Sucre, where we didn't have a reservation, and where the 6 of us (Donatella and her friend, Donatella's son and his friend, and then the two of us) didn't even get seated until after 11. I have no idea how the portenos do it!

I wish I could say that the Patagonian lamb I had was my best ever, but it was just so-so. Ah well, I guess we just haven't found our fave restaurant yet...