I feel completely cheated: when I arrived in BA, I somehow managed to be on the one flight a day that's international, but arrives at the domestic terminal. And this terminal, where most international flights arrive + depart is *much* nicer! Sheesh!
My suitcase was overweight, which I suspected might be the case. I packed it so amazingly full that I hope they don't try to search it, since there's no way it's all going to fit in there again!
She kept trying to convince me to check a second bag. I suppose I could have somehow moved my carry-on bag contents into a shopping bag (good stores here give out nice canvas ones) and checked my current carry-on bag. Or I could have bought a cheap suitcase and then kept the carry-on with me. Either way, I have no desire to have another bag to lug around O'Hare when I arrive there at 5 am CT (3 am PT!).
She felt so bad aboit charging me that she moved my seat, so it turns out it was probably the best $50 I've ever spent: I went from a middle seat near the back to an aisle seat in what appears to be an exit row. Score! I usually prefer window seats, but since this is such a long flight I want the ability to easily get up and walk around every hour or so.
So now I'm chillin' at the gate, savoring how nice and relaxed I am, and what a nice week it was (well, except for Monday night). I'm sure I'll think of more to write later, but for now I'm going to watch the Argentina tourism video playing on the TV here (kind-of a weird place to show it, by the international departure gates, eh?)
Friday, May 30, 2008
it´s my last day, so i´m finishing up at my hotel and trying to map out my last walk around palermo. i have lunch reservations at a really well-regarded sushi restaurant, and then i´ll head off to the airport.
dinner last night was good, although the place was more of a neighborhood favorite than something worthy of mention in a luxury magazine article. i had lamb and potato croquettes to start (sooo, sooo yummy!) and then veal kabobs served with a multi-bean and peppers salad, sprinkled with a healthy dollop of feta crumbles. it was good, but after the beef at las lilas, it seemed like a disappointment. dessert was amazing, though. have i mentionned yet that the ice cream here is phenomenal? (i almost used the ¿ symbol, which i love having on the keyboard here!¡!¡!¡). apparently the italian immigrants to buenos aires have made quite an impact on the ice cream making, so you´ve got the happiest cattle in the world, and then amazing ice cream craftsmanship. yum!
anyhow, the best vanilla-with-a-hint-of-mint ice cream was served with a still-hot coil of middle eastern pastry (basically baklava), dusted with powdered sugar and crumbled nuts. omg, soooo good! i had to pretty much roll home from the restaurant.
one last thought before i log off; i started to make a list of likes and dislikes about BA. here it is, so far:
great things about BA:
- the ice cream is awesome
- cabs are plentiful and cheap
- most people speak English and don´t seem to mind
- these people know how to use cows. the leather and beef are as superb as you´ve heard.
not-so-great-things about BA:
- it can be hard to find a healthy meal, or any decent vegetables
- sidewalks can be pretty rough in some neighborhoods; cobblestones and rough pavement
- people aren´t very good about cleaning up after their dogs
- the only people in the service industry who don´t seem to speak English are the cab drivers
more later, from the airport!
dinner last night was good, although the place was more of a neighborhood favorite than something worthy of mention in a luxury magazine article. i had lamb and potato croquettes to start (sooo, sooo yummy!) and then veal kabobs served with a multi-bean and peppers salad, sprinkled with a healthy dollop of feta crumbles. it was good, but after the beef at las lilas, it seemed like a disappointment. dessert was amazing, though. have i mentionned yet that the ice cream here is phenomenal? (i almost used the ¿ symbol, which i love having on the keyboard here!¡!¡!¡). apparently the italian immigrants to buenos aires have made quite an impact on the ice cream making, so you´ve got the happiest cattle in the world, and then amazing ice cream craftsmanship. yum!
anyhow, the best vanilla-with-a-hint-of-mint ice cream was served with a still-hot coil of middle eastern pastry (basically baklava), dusted with powdered sugar and crumbled nuts. omg, soooo good! i had to pretty much roll home from the restaurant.
one last thought before i log off; i started to make a list of likes and dislikes about BA. here it is, so far:
great things about BA:
- the ice cream is awesome
- cabs are plentiful and cheap
- most people speak English and don´t seem to mind
- these people know how to use cows. the leather and beef are as superb as you´ve heard.
not-so-great-things about BA:
- it can be hard to find a healthy meal, or any decent vegetables
- sidewalks can be pretty rough in some neighborhoods; cobblestones and rough pavement
- people aren´t very good about cleaning up after their dogs
- the only people in the service industry who don´t seem to speak English are the cab drivers
more later, from the airport!
Thursday, May 29, 2008
Today I packed up and moved out of our palatial room at the Park Hyatt. I was sad to leave, but it is a bit nice to be anonymous again: everyone at the Park Hyatt kept asking how Ann was and if I needed anything, since they all know it's my first time here.
I walked a bit more around the Recoleta neighborhood today, but it was a bit cold. I stopped in the largest bookstore in South America, which is in a former theater and is quite gorgeous. There is a cafe where the stage used to be, sections of books on the balconies, and little reading nooks in the opera boxes. I browsed through the maps and globes, checked out the photography books, and then discovered a bunch of bi-lingual books about Patagonia in the travel section. I bought a couple of them and am wondering if they will displace Greenland from my fascination for a spell...
I walked down Ave Santa Fe for a bit. It's a huge shopping area, but not particularly interesting. Lots of local chains and mid-range stuff. I bought a pair of socks, since I'm out and I want to wear my new boots home instead of packing them.
I had lunch at Olsen, which is a hip Scandinavian restaurant in Palermo. It was wonderful, and I think it would do extremely well in NY, SF or Chicago (I can only vouch for places I've lived!), and found myself wondering what it would be like to run a place like it. It's in a really neat high-ceiling-ed building, with a greenhouse-y sort of ceiling. The main seating area (there is also a small balcony) is anchored by a mod and towering wood burning stove, which was in full force today since it's very cold here (in the 40s). All of the walls are a gorgeous warm honey-colored wood and the furniture is all Scandinavian modern.
I ordered the lunch special fish entree, which came sprinkled with small citrus segments and breadcrumbs, and atop minced broccoli. It was served with some of the best potatoes I've ever had (didn't I just mention yesterday that I love potatoes?), and I had the noodle soup with it, which had really tiny noodles in a light broth with teeny-tiny shrimps and spinach. Sooooo good on a cold day!
Since Olsen is known for their lengthy list of vodkas, I couldn't resist getting a bloody mary (okay, so I had two. I *am* on vacation!). I was relaxed, full and happy when I was done with lunch.
Palermo is a great shopping area, so I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around, and then I checked into my new hotel, Legado Mitico, which is a small boutique hotel in Palermo where each of the rooms is themed after a famous Argentine historical person. I am in the La Arrabalera room, which is decorated after a famous tango dancer. It sounded like it had the potential to be gaudy, but it's really lovely. I'll definitely take a photo.
Now I'm heading back to the Hyatt to get my luggage, where it's been stored for the day. I've got dinner reservations at a Moroccan restaurant that's supposed to be really good, so I'll write more after that.
Ciao!
I walked a bit more around the Recoleta neighborhood today, but it was a bit cold. I stopped in the largest bookstore in South America, which is in a former theater and is quite gorgeous. There is a cafe where the stage used to be, sections of books on the balconies, and little reading nooks in the opera boxes. I browsed through the maps and globes, checked out the photography books, and then discovered a bunch of bi-lingual books about Patagonia in the travel section. I bought a couple of them and am wondering if they will displace Greenland from my fascination for a spell...
I walked down Ave Santa Fe for a bit. It's a huge shopping area, but not particularly interesting. Lots of local chains and mid-range stuff. I bought a pair of socks, since I'm out and I want to wear my new boots home instead of packing them.
I had lunch at Olsen, which is a hip Scandinavian restaurant in Palermo. It was wonderful, and I think it would do extremely well in NY, SF or Chicago (I can only vouch for places I've lived!), and found myself wondering what it would be like to run a place like it. It's in a really neat high-ceiling-ed building, with a greenhouse-y sort of ceiling. The main seating area (there is also a small balcony) is anchored by a mod and towering wood burning stove, which was in full force today since it's very cold here (in the 40s). All of the walls are a gorgeous warm honey-colored wood and the furniture is all Scandinavian modern.
I ordered the lunch special fish entree, which came sprinkled with small citrus segments and breadcrumbs, and atop minced broccoli. It was served with some of the best potatoes I've ever had (didn't I just mention yesterday that I love potatoes?), and I had the noodle soup with it, which had really tiny noodles in a light broth with teeny-tiny shrimps and spinach. Sooooo good on a cold day!
Since Olsen is known for their lengthy list of vodkas, I couldn't resist getting a bloody mary (okay, so I had two. I *am* on vacation!). I was relaxed, full and happy when I was done with lunch.
Palermo is a great shopping area, so I spent the rest of the afternoon walking around, and then I checked into my new hotel, Legado Mitico, which is a small boutique hotel in Palermo where each of the rooms is themed after a famous Argentine historical person. I am in the La Arrabalera room, which is decorated after a famous tango dancer. It sounded like it had the potential to be gaudy, but it's really lovely. I'll definitely take a photo.
Now I'm heading back to the Hyatt to get my luggage, where it's been stored for the day. I've got dinner reservations at a Moroccan restaurant that's supposed to be really good, so I'll write more after that.
Ciao!
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
The art exhibition was neat, but it would have been much more enjoyable if I wasn't alone. It's just not as much fun to be amazed about things when you're alone -- or to be snarky about how silly and pretentious something is!
I took a lot of photos, but now that I don't have a computer with me (I was using Ann's before) it is unlikely that I can download the photos off of my camera until I get home.
After the show, I went to the best steak restaurant in town, at least according to most of the guidebooks I've looked at and people we've talked to. All of them admit that it attracts a ton of tourists, but it was worth not caring about that: this dinner was the best steak I've ever had, by far.
I believe my parents read this blog, and they can tell you: I was not a huge steak eater growing up, and that really hasn't changed over time. I usually love the baked potato as much as the steak, and put lots of effort into carving the fat off of the end of the steak. I usually use my caveman knife grip (which Steve can probably imitate for you, if you haven't seen me do it. I really do need to learn to use my silverware properly...) to hack at the steak to get it into small pieces. Well, this was a completely different story: the steak was so tender it barely needed a knife. I read in one guidebook that you could eat it with a spoon, and while I'm not sure if that would be a good experience, I can see what they mean, since all you need the knife for is to gently suggest to the fibers of meat that they should fall apart. And although the baked potato was good (and it came with bacon on top of the huge pile of sour cream - of course), I didn't really want to waste stomach space on it or on the side salad I ordered (which was perfectly fine: lovely lettuce with tomatoes and onions on it, in a balsamic viniagrette that was mixed tableside).
I don't think the tables around me were tourists: they were all speaking Spanish (and yes, I realize that there could easily be lots of Spanish-speaking tourists in BA), and most were dressed in business attire. Because it's expensive for a steak restaurant here, I guess it probably makes sense that it's most popular with tourists or for business meals.
It doesn't matter to me who was at the tables next to me, or what the reputation of the place is: if you are in BA anytime soon, go to Las Lilas, and go hungry!
Goodnight, amigos!
I took a lot of photos, but now that I don't have a computer with me (I was using Ann's before) it is unlikely that I can download the photos off of my camera until I get home.
After the show, I went to the best steak restaurant in town, at least according to most of the guidebooks I've looked at and people we've talked to. All of them admit that it attracts a ton of tourists, but it was worth not caring about that: this dinner was the best steak I've ever had, by far.
I believe my parents read this blog, and they can tell you: I was not a huge steak eater growing up, and that really hasn't changed over time. I usually love the baked potato as much as the steak, and put lots of effort into carving the fat off of the end of the steak. I usually use my caveman knife grip (which Steve can probably imitate for you, if you haven't seen me do it. I really do need to learn to use my silverware properly...) to hack at the steak to get it into small pieces. Well, this was a completely different story: the steak was so tender it barely needed a knife. I read in one guidebook that you could eat it with a spoon, and while I'm not sure if that would be a good experience, I can see what they mean, since all you need the knife for is to gently suggest to the fibers of meat that they should fall apart. And although the baked potato was good (and it came with bacon on top of the huge pile of sour cream - of course), I didn't really want to waste stomach space on it or on the side salad I ordered (which was perfectly fine: lovely lettuce with tomatoes and onions on it, in a balsamic viniagrette that was mixed tableside).
I don't think the tables around me were tourists: they were all speaking Spanish (and yes, I realize that there could easily be lots of Spanish-speaking tourists in BA), and most were dressed in business attire. Because it's expensive for a steak restaurant here, I guess it probably makes sense that it's most popular with tourists or for business meals.
It doesn't matter to me who was at the tables next to me, or what the reputation of the place is: if you are in BA anytime soon, go to Las Lilas, and go hungry!
Goodnight, amigos!
Seriously - splurge + stay at the Park Hyatt
They have been so wonderful that I am now a walking endorsement. They know I'm alone here now and helped me make lunch and dinner reservations for the rest of my trip, and also gave me a ticket to the very-hip ArteBA exhibition opening tonight. I know very little about contemporary art and even less about South American art, but I am excited nonetheless.
Today I slept in, worked out, then figured out where I wanted the concierge to make me reservations while eating a room service breakfast. Very decadent and vacation-ish!
I shopped most of the afternoon, taking breaks to eat and people watch.
The exchange rate here is amazing, and for Argentine-made goods, they are tax free so you get a refund of (I believe) about 12% back at the airport. The leather goods are amazing, but after browsing a bit it starts to be clear that a lot of stores carry similar styles. Ann had advised me on a couple of places with stellar reputations -- and the leather was gorgeous -- but the bags were exactly the same styles. I realize that nobody I know at home will have the same purse or shoes, but that still sort of bothers me. I don't necessarily need one-of-a-kind (or the price that that sort of thing would require!), but want to feel like I scored a "find".
I did find a pair of classic, gorgeous black boots. They are lined in a spring-y pistachio color and fit perfectly. I will have to come up with a different shopping mission for tomorrow, maybe (very early) Christmas gifts.
I'm off to change outfits and go see some art!
Today I slept in, worked out, then figured out where I wanted the concierge to make me reservations while eating a room service breakfast. Very decadent and vacation-ish!
I shopped most of the afternoon, taking breaks to eat and people watch.
The exchange rate here is amazing, and for Argentine-made goods, they are tax free so you get a refund of (I believe) about 12% back at the airport. The leather goods are amazing, but after browsing a bit it starts to be clear that a lot of stores carry similar styles. Ann had advised me on a couple of places with stellar reputations -- and the leather was gorgeous -- but the bags were exactly the same styles. I realize that nobody I know at home will have the same purse or shoes, but that still sort of bothers me. I don't necessarily need one-of-a-kind (or the price that that sort of thing would require!), but want to feel like I scored a "find".
I did find a pair of classic, gorgeous black boots. They are lined in a spring-y pistachio color and fit perfectly. I will have to come up with a different shopping mission for tomorrow, maybe (very early) Christmas gifts.
I'm off to change outfits and go see some art!
Tuesday, May 27, 2008
What a crazy day!
Unfortunately, this morning started very, very early, with Ann trying to get to the bathroom in the dark and slipping on the very-slippery floor around 4 am. She hit pretty hard, so we ended up at the hospital, where x-rays showed that she had broken her jaw. Apparently the German Hospital is the best around, and yet they told us that treatment here is to wire the jaw shut for a couple of weeks, whereas in the US it's possible to get it fixed somehow via surgery.
Therefore, this afternoon was spent dealing with cancelling appointments and getting Ann on the next flight home. We had amazing service from the folks at the Hyatt. They sent someone with us to the hospital, cleaned up the room while we were at the hospital, arranged Ann's new return flight, and helped us get the x-rays and medication. They also took Ann to the airport and helped her get an upgrade to first class at no charge.
I am so glad I was here to help her out today (although I wasn't quite as helpful as the Hyatt staff!), but I feel bad too, since our lightswitches in the room are really confusing, and therefore she opted not to try to fuss with them when she got up in the night, so that I could sleep. I suppose she could have just as easily fallen in the light, but I can't help but think she would have somehow caught herself when falling if it had been in an illuminated room... Of course, then there's the chance she would have messed up her wrist, I suppose.
Ah well.
We were lucky to have such great help and good care at the hospital. I am sure Andy will take good care of her when she gets home tomorrow morning.
Now I am on my own in Buenos Aires for a couple of days. I debated heading home early, but was easily able to find a new hotel (with Ann, our rooms were at hotels that she was reviewing, but without her I had no reason to stay there). I've spent the evening figuring out my plan of attack for the last couple of days, walking around a nearby "mall" and getting dinner. I can so totally handle this!
Backing up a bit, let me tell you about our last day together, since it was really nice.
We moved hotels to the Park Hyatt and then Ann had an appointment. I caught up on email and was able to chat online with Steve. I also took advantage of the wonderful soaking tub in our room. This is vacation, after all, so I didn't want to rush around the entire time!
I met Ann up in Palermo for lunch. It's a very hip area, full of boutiques and cafes. We found a great health-food cafe (in the front of a yoga studio) and had a wonderful, healthy lunch, which we were both craving after all of the fancy, late dinners. Then we shopped, shopped, shopped (don't worry, Steve, I didn't go nuts!).
We had a great evening back in the Recoleta neighborhood. The Park Hyatt has a wine bar with its own cheese cave (!), which we just *had* to check out. After all, it was important research for the article! The brie made here is really lovely. I'm not a huge brie fan, but we've had their local version twice now and it's so lovely!
After a rest in the room, it was time to head to dinner (did I mention before how absurdly late they eat here)?
We went to a very small (10 tables), romantic (!), and lovely little place called Nectarine, where we had an amazing meal. Apparently most of the meat on the menu is from the owner's estancia (ranch). I took their recommendations, which were for a starter of homemade spaghetti noodles with greens (minced chard + spinach, I believe) and mini meatballs, and then had the entree of suckling pig, which was the yummiest, moist little medallions of pork I've ever had. I tried their riskiest sounding dessert, which was also a winner: mascarpone and basil creme on an olive oil crust, served with sweet potato ice cream that was topped with lime foam. There were pumpkin seeds sprinkled on the plate. It was risky, but it worked.
Then we passed out happily and soundly for about 3 hours, before the "incident".
I am going to enjoy the soaking tub here, since I have to leave these 5-star accomodations in the morning.
Buenos Noches!
Therefore, this afternoon was spent dealing with cancelling appointments and getting Ann on the next flight home. We had amazing service from the folks at the Hyatt. They sent someone with us to the hospital, cleaned up the room while we were at the hospital, arranged Ann's new return flight, and helped us get the x-rays and medication. They also took Ann to the airport and helped her get an upgrade to first class at no charge.
I am so glad I was here to help her out today (although I wasn't quite as helpful as the Hyatt staff!), but I feel bad too, since our lightswitches in the room are really confusing, and therefore she opted not to try to fuss with them when she got up in the night, so that I could sleep. I suppose she could have just as easily fallen in the light, but I can't help but think she would have somehow caught herself when falling if it had been in an illuminated room... Of course, then there's the chance she would have messed up her wrist, I suppose.
Ah well.
We were lucky to have such great help and good care at the hospital. I am sure Andy will take good care of her when she gets home tomorrow morning.
Now I am on my own in Buenos Aires for a couple of days. I debated heading home early, but was easily able to find a new hotel (with Ann, our rooms were at hotels that she was reviewing, but without her I had no reason to stay there). I've spent the evening figuring out my plan of attack for the last couple of days, walking around a nearby "mall" and getting dinner. I can so totally handle this!
Backing up a bit, let me tell you about our last day together, since it was really nice.
We moved hotels to the Park Hyatt and then Ann had an appointment. I caught up on email and was able to chat online with Steve. I also took advantage of the wonderful soaking tub in our room. This is vacation, after all, so I didn't want to rush around the entire time!
I met Ann up in Palermo for lunch. It's a very hip area, full of boutiques and cafes. We found a great health-food cafe (in the front of a yoga studio) and had a wonderful, healthy lunch, which we were both craving after all of the fancy, late dinners. Then we shopped, shopped, shopped (don't worry, Steve, I didn't go nuts!).
We had a great evening back in the Recoleta neighborhood. The Park Hyatt has a wine bar with its own cheese cave (!), which we just *had* to check out. After all, it was important research for the article! The brie made here is really lovely. I'm not a huge brie fan, but we've had their local version twice now and it's so lovely!
After a rest in the room, it was time to head to dinner (did I mention before how absurdly late they eat here)?
We went to a very small (10 tables), romantic (!), and lovely little place called Nectarine, where we had an amazing meal. Apparently most of the meat on the menu is from the owner's estancia (ranch). I took their recommendations, which were for a starter of homemade spaghetti noodles with greens (minced chard + spinach, I believe) and mini meatballs, and then had the entree of suckling pig, which was the yummiest, moist little medallions of pork I've ever had. I tried their riskiest sounding dessert, which was also a winner: mascarpone and basil creme on an olive oil crust, served with sweet potato ice cream that was topped with lime foam. There were pumpkin seeds sprinkled on the plate. It was risky, but it worked.
Then we passed out happily and soundly for about 3 hours, before the "incident".
I am going to enjoy the soaking tub here, since I have to leave these 5-star accomodations in the morning.
Buenos Noches!
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Yesterday evening we were treated to a nice tasting of Argentine wines at the Four Seasons. I thought we were just getting tapas at an open restaurant, but instead we were the only ones in the breakfast room with a sous chef, a hotel manager and the sommelier. They treated us to a nice group of Argentine wines representing a larger range than either Ann or I expected.
After that we met up with our Argentine friends (Donatella and co) for dinner at one of the hippest places in town, Casa Cruz. I was throroughly underwhelmed by everything I ate, and since Donatella sent her food back, I wasn't the only one. The descriptions were intriguing and the ingredients were unusual, but in the end there were too many competing flavors in each dish. To me, the hip vibe didn't make up for it.
After that Ann and I went to the Confiteria Ideal, which is a famous place to go for milongas (tango social dances) and dance lessons. We are having lessons somewhere else on Tuesday, but this was still an impressive place to get inspired. There was an amazing mix of people; old and young, hipsters and those dressed bery casually; tourists and very obvious "regulars". We didn't stay all that long, but got to see a group of performances by a really awesome young couple, which I desperately tried to get a good photo of.
Today we had breakfast at the hotel, then went to their spa for massages (which were really great) and some downtime in the sauna and hamman, which is gorgeous and larger than lots of SF or NYC apartments.
We caught a cab to San Telmo, home of the city's most famous street fair and flea market. We had an unremarkable lunch at a French cafe and then walked through the packed streets, navigating between cheap handicrafts and awesome antiques, all to the tunes of local musicians.
It was pretty overcast today, and I didn't want to keep pulling out my camera in such a touristy area, so I didn't take any photos until we stumbled on a band composed entirely of accordionists and violinists. I bought their CD, so if you're curious, let me know.
After shopping around for several hours we went to La Boca, which is a colorful and touristy neighborhood that's a little rough-around-the-edges. We had a single drink there before heading back to the hotel for a brief respite, including a short workout at the gym.
Tonight we were supposed to have dinner at another hip joint, a sushi restaurant. However, I guess the place was closed, and so even though we had a reservation, Donatella beat us there and called to tell us that it wasn't going to happen and that we'd need to meet elsewhere. So we went to a place called Sucre, where we didn't have a reservation, and where the 6 of us (Donatella and her friend, Donatella's son and his friend, and then the two of us) didn't even get seated until after 11. I have no idea how the portenos do it!
I wish I could say that the Patagonian lamb I had was my best ever, but it was just so-so. Ah well, I guess we just haven't found our fave restaurant yet...
After that we met up with our Argentine friends (Donatella and co) for dinner at one of the hippest places in town, Casa Cruz. I was throroughly underwhelmed by everything I ate, and since Donatella sent her food back, I wasn't the only one. The descriptions were intriguing and the ingredients were unusual, but in the end there were too many competing flavors in each dish. To me, the hip vibe didn't make up for it.
After that Ann and I went to the Confiteria Ideal, which is a famous place to go for milongas (tango social dances) and dance lessons. We are having lessons somewhere else on Tuesday, but this was still an impressive place to get inspired. There was an amazing mix of people; old and young, hipsters and those dressed bery casually; tourists and very obvious "regulars". We didn't stay all that long, but got to see a group of performances by a really awesome young couple, which I desperately tried to get a good photo of.
Today we had breakfast at the hotel, then went to their spa for massages (which were really great) and some downtime in the sauna and hamman, which is gorgeous and larger than lots of SF or NYC apartments.
We caught a cab to San Telmo, home of the city's most famous street fair and flea market. We had an unremarkable lunch at a French cafe and then walked through the packed streets, navigating between cheap handicrafts and awesome antiques, all to the tunes of local musicians.
It was pretty overcast today, and I didn't want to keep pulling out my camera in such a touristy area, so I didn't take any photos until we stumbled on a band composed entirely of accordionists and violinists. I bought their CD, so if you're curious, let me know.
After shopping around for several hours we went to La Boca, which is a colorful and touristy neighborhood that's a little rough-around-the-edges. We had a single drink there before heading back to the hotel for a brief respite, including a short workout at the gym.
Tonight we were supposed to have dinner at another hip joint, a sushi restaurant. However, I guess the place was closed, and so even though we had a reservation, Donatella beat us there and called to tell us that it wasn't going to happen and that we'd need to meet elsewhere. So we went to a place called Sucre, where we didn't have a reservation, and where the 6 of us (Donatella and her friend, Donatella's son and his friend, and then the two of us) didn't even get seated until after 11. I have no idea how the portenos do it!
I wish I could say that the Patagonian lamb I had was my best ever, but it was just so-so. Ah well, I guess we just haven't found our fave restaurant yet...
Saturday, May 24, 2008
I wish I knew some Spanish!
Unfortunately I am a complete gringo, an annoying American that is trying to get by with a "por favor" and a smile.
We had to move hotels today, so we're now at the Faena. It's not really our cup of tea: the rooms are silly hip, with lots of white leather, gold trim and etched glass. And for some reason the floors are so polished that they are extremely slippery. The library bar has a nice and relaxed look to it, though, and the spa looks amazing. Tomorrow we plan to check that out.
We had a post-hotel-switch coffee at the famous Cafe Tortoni, which is bustling and touristy, yet charming. Ann had to run off to appointments, and I took my time, lingering over one of their specialities: (hot) chocolate and churros (memo to Steve: churros hate you, too!).
While I was waiting for the bill there seemed to be some sort of ruckus on the street outside, and I started to see marchers of some sort going by whenever the door opened. Once I was ready to go, there wasn't anyone marching by anymore, but I could see a large gathering of people down the street, on the plaza in front of the Casa Rosada (their version of the White House).
I just *had* to see what was going on, so I headed down to the plaza, where it became apparent that it was some sort of religious occasion, with the crowd's attention on a stage in front of the cathedral, and lots of banners representing what appeared to be parochial schools and religious clubs. After about a minute (what timing on my part!), a priest of some sort, wearing a red skullcap (does that make him a bishop? Archbishop?) came out and started some sort of service. Despite my many years of Catholic masses, I was only really able to follow things a little bit when they did the Lord's Prayer. Other than that, I have no idea if it was a religious holiday, a blessing of some sort, an ordination, or some other occasion. Nonetheless, it was fascinating to watch.
I started to get a bit chilly (it's overcast and 55-60 today, and I was only wearing a light sweater since I was planning to museum hop all afternoon), so I walked a couple of blocks off of the square and caught a cab to MALBA.
MALBA is the modern art museum that is based off of one man's collection, and focuses on South American art, which I know nothing about. It's relatively modest in size, so I've already cruised through about 2/3 of it, and then decided to get a bite and some coffee here in their cafe.
I really enjoyed the temporary exhibit of the Brazilian female artist Tarsila do Amaral. The works are all focused on her travels between 1918-1933, and there are some wonderfully vivid pieces.
I'm off to finish the rest, then to meet up with Ann for a late afternoon drink.
Ciao!
We had to move hotels today, so we're now at the Faena. It's not really our cup of tea: the rooms are silly hip, with lots of white leather, gold trim and etched glass. And for some reason the floors are so polished that they are extremely slippery. The library bar has a nice and relaxed look to it, though, and the spa looks amazing. Tomorrow we plan to check that out.
We had a post-hotel-switch coffee at the famous Cafe Tortoni, which is bustling and touristy, yet charming. Ann had to run off to appointments, and I took my time, lingering over one of their specialities: (hot) chocolate and churros (memo to Steve: churros hate you, too!).
While I was waiting for the bill there seemed to be some sort of ruckus on the street outside, and I started to see marchers of some sort going by whenever the door opened. Once I was ready to go, there wasn't anyone marching by anymore, but I could see a large gathering of people down the street, on the plaza in front of the Casa Rosada (their version of the White House).
I just *had* to see what was going on, so I headed down to the plaza, where it became apparent that it was some sort of religious occasion, with the crowd's attention on a stage in front of the cathedral, and lots of banners representing what appeared to be parochial schools and religious clubs. After about a minute (what timing on my part!), a priest of some sort, wearing a red skullcap (does that make him a bishop? Archbishop?) came out and started some sort of service. Despite my many years of Catholic masses, I was only really able to follow things a little bit when they did the Lord's Prayer. Other than that, I have no idea if it was a religious holiday, a blessing of some sort, an ordination, or some other occasion. Nonetheless, it was fascinating to watch.
I started to get a bit chilly (it's overcast and 55-60 today, and I was only wearing a light sweater since I was planning to museum hop all afternoon), so I walked a couple of blocks off of the square and caught a cab to MALBA.
MALBA is the modern art museum that is based off of one man's collection, and focuses on South American art, which I know nothing about. It's relatively modest in size, so I've already cruised through about 2/3 of it, and then decided to get a bite and some coffee here in their cafe.
I really enjoyed the temporary exhibit of the Brazilian female artist Tarsila do Amaral. The works are all focused on her travels between 1918-1933, and there are some wonderfully vivid pieces.
I'm off to finish the rest, then to meet up with Ann for a late afternoon drink.
Ciao!
Friday, May 23, 2008
I slept like crazy last night. Or like the dead. Or like a log. I have no idea why there are so many bad metaphors for it, but there you have it: I slept well, and a lot.
Anyhow, I guess I must have needed the sleep. I had very vivid and bizarre dreams (I was living in some sort of artist-y loft space with a big group of people, and we were redecorating...)
Ann had appointments today, so I was on my own from (a rather late) breakfast until late afternoon. I started out by walking through a pseudo-mall called Design Buenos Aires that specializes in home decor, furniture and handicrafts. I was really impressed by a Chinese carriage that I thought would make a nice companion piece to our fez cabinet. Unfortunately I didn't have 12,000 pesos with me...
After that I found my way to the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetary), which is amazing and beautiful and eerie and unique. I took a lot of photos, which you can see on my flickr account. It had rained earlier in the morning and the light was perfect for cemetary wandering: bright, yet somber.
I then had some trouble finding my next location, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Arts) and somehow took a bridge that made me pass right next to it. Luckily this put me right by the famous sculpture Floralis Genérica, which you can see in this lovely photo that I took:
The musuem itself was a bit strange. There was no huge and imposing entrance line mobbed with tourists, and no huge museum shop beckoning me. I was asked by a security guard to check my bag, and when I decided a few minutes later that I couldn't really do that (since my bag = my purse) and stepped out of that line, I was able to walk right in to the European galleries, which were amazingly quiet and gorgeous. It was more dimly lit than in North American museums, and the relative calm of it was exactly what I needed. I lingered through the Modiglianis, gaxed at some little known Picassos for quite awhile, and watched a group of kids wander through with some sort of schoolteacher. I kept wondering if I'd stumbled in through some side entrance and the crowds were elsewhere.
I ended up near a contemporary Korean art exhibit called "Peppermint Candy" which was amazing. I couldn't read any of the labels and they didn't have an English guide to the exhibit, but I think that actually added to my enjoyment. Steve would have loved it too, so I bought the exhibit book (which does have English translation). You can see some of the photos I took inside the galleries on my flickr site.
I was starving by this time (it was around 3:30 pm) and so I went to the closest place to get a bite, which was some sort of Maserati/Ferrari themed cafe. Weird. The pizza wasn't all that good, but the service was great and I enjoyed my sugar-cane-fueled Coca-cola.
I met up with Ann and Donatella around 4:30 at the hotel so that we could go and tour the workshop of the amazing silversmith Juan Carlos Pallarols (check out his website, even though they're still 'burnishing our Englih Site'). Through Donatella and another translating assistant, he told us amazing stories about meeting dignitaries like the Princess of Holland and the Prince of Japan, as well as the pope (who apparently uses a mirror from Juan Carlos to shave!). He showed us all around his workshop, including tools handed down through the past three generations (he is the sixth generation of silversmith in his family, and he is teaching his son and grandson). He is currently working on an altarpiece, and even let us hammer a piece of silver using one of his molds. He was such a lovely and sweet man, as were his assistants, who were patient with us while we toured around (and I took lots of photos). They even gave us sips of yerba mate (not exactly my cup of tea, heh-heh) from one of the gorgeous gourds he had made. What an incredible experience.
We wandered around San Telmo for a bit after that, then went out "early" (9 pm reservation) for dinner at what's reputed to be the best place in town to get fish. We had a lovely dinner and then were supposed to meet up with Donatella to go clubbing, but she didn't want to leave until 1 (apparently clubs aren't really even open until 2 am or so...), so stopped back at the hotel. We're both so absolutely spent that we were relieved when things fell through, so Ann got to have a Skype call with Andy, and I was able to postpostpost to this blog.
I realize that clubbing until 5 am is part of the BA experience, but I can't get excited about it at all. I'd much rather drink Malbec with dinner and then chill out...
Buenas noches!
Anyhow, I guess I must have needed the sleep. I had very vivid and bizarre dreams (I was living in some sort of artist-y loft space with a big group of people, and we were redecorating...)
Ann had appointments today, so I was on my own from (a rather late) breakfast until late afternoon. I started out by walking through a pseudo-mall called Design Buenos Aires that specializes in home decor, furniture and handicrafts. I was really impressed by a Chinese carriage that I thought would make a nice companion piece to our fez cabinet. Unfortunately I didn't have 12,000 pesos with me...
After that I found my way to the famous Cementerio de la Recoleta (Recoleta Cemetary), which is amazing and beautiful and eerie and unique. I took a lot of photos, which you can see on my flickr account. It had rained earlier in the morning and the light was perfect for cemetary wandering: bright, yet somber.
I then had some trouble finding my next location, the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes (National Museum of Arts) and somehow took a bridge that made me pass right next to it. Luckily this put me right by the famous sculpture Floralis Genérica, which you can see in this lovely photo that I took:
The musuem itself was a bit strange. There was no huge and imposing entrance line mobbed with tourists, and no huge museum shop beckoning me. I was asked by a security guard to check my bag, and when I decided a few minutes later that I couldn't really do that (since my bag = my purse) and stepped out of that line, I was able to walk right in to the European galleries, which were amazingly quiet and gorgeous. It was more dimly lit than in North American museums, and the relative calm of it was exactly what I needed. I lingered through the Modiglianis, gaxed at some little known Picassos for quite awhile, and watched a group of kids wander through with some sort of schoolteacher. I kept wondering if I'd stumbled in through some side entrance and the crowds were elsewhere.
I ended up near a contemporary Korean art exhibit called "Peppermint Candy" which was amazing. I couldn't read any of the labels and they didn't have an English guide to the exhibit, but I think that actually added to my enjoyment. Steve would have loved it too, so I bought the exhibit book (which does have English translation). You can see some of the photos I took inside the galleries on my flickr site.
I was starving by this time (it was around 3:30 pm) and so I went to the closest place to get a bite, which was some sort of Maserati/Ferrari themed cafe. Weird. The pizza wasn't all that good, but the service was great and I enjoyed my sugar-cane-fueled Coca-cola.
I met up with Ann and Donatella around 4:30 at the hotel so that we could go and tour the workshop of the amazing silversmith Juan Carlos Pallarols (check out his website, even though they're still 'burnishing our Englih Site'). Through Donatella and another translating assistant, he told us amazing stories about meeting dignitaries like the Princess of Holland and the Prince of Japan, as well as the pope (who apparently uses a mirror from Juan Carlos to shave!). He showed us all around his workshop, including tools handed down through the past three generations (he is the sixth generation of silversmith in his family, and he is teaching his son and grandson). He is currently working on an altarpiece, and even let us hammer a piece of silver using one of his molds. He was such a lovely and sweet man, as were his assistants, who were patient with us while we toured around (and I took lots of photos). They even gave us sips of yerba mate (not exactly my cup of tea, heh-heh) from one of the gorgeous gourds he had made. What an incredible experience.
We wandered around San Telmo for a bit after that, then went out "early" (9 pm reservation) for dinner at what's reputed to be the best place in town to get fish. We had a lovely dinner and then were supposed to meet up with Donatella to go clubbing, but she didn't want to leave until 1 (apparently clubs aren't really even open until 2 am or so...), so stopped back at the hotel. We're both so absolutely spent that we were relieved when things fell through, so Ann got to have a Skype call with Andy, and I was able to postpostpost to this blog.
I realize that clubbing until 5 am is part of the BA experience, but I can't get excited about it at all. I'd much rather drink Malbec with dinner and then chill out...
Buenas noches!
Thursday, May 22, 2008
I couldn't find Ann at the airport, and it turns out I was given incorrect information about our flight arrivals: we were in separate terminals. However, we arrived at the hotel about 5 minutes apart, so things worked out in the end.
We didn't really have time to fully freshen up before her first appointment, which was lunch with the publicist at the Faena Universe, which we're staying at this weekend. We had a nice lunch at their Mercado restaurant (yummy empanadas!), and then toured the Phillipe Starck-designed "fantasy hotel". I hope it's even slightly warm while we're there, since the heated pool looks fantastic. We are having treatments (and maybe also attending a yoga class) at their spa on Sunday, which should be wonderful.
After that we went to Comme il Faut, which is a tango shoe store. They sit you down, ask you a few questions and then keep bringing you amazing high heels until you find some shoes that you love. What fun!
We needed a nap between shopping and our 10:30 pm dinner date, so we had what I'd call a "disco nap" (which Steve rightly corrected me about: here it's probably more of a tango nap). And then... The parilla!
We met up with one of Ann's contacts, who is a glamourous, reed-thin 47-year old Kabbalah fan. She took us out with her friend and the friend's model boyfriend (at least 20 years her junior!). It was like being out with the Maya Rudolph imitation of Donatella Versace, her silent (Spanish-speaking only) sidekick and Derek Zoolander. And then they brought us huge hunks of meat and Malbec.
I wish I could say the steak was the best I've ever had, but I do get to eat some pretty good food in the US, and my steak was a bit overcooked (so was Zoolander's: he sent it back). The atmosphere was great, though, and the heavy meal and jammy red wine was just what I needed to make me sleepy. I think they were somewhat bummed that we didn't end up going clubbing with them afterward (to Jet), but Ann and I are both excited about some shut-eye in fancy beds vs filthy American Airlines seats.
Goodnight!
We didn't really have time to fully freshen up before her first appointment, which was lunch with the publicist at the Faena Universe, which we're staying at this weekend. We had a nice lunch at their Mercado restaurant (yummy empanadas!), and then toured the Phillipe Starck-designed "fantasy hotel". I hope it's even slightly warm while we're there, since the heated pool looks fantastic. We are having treatments (and maybe also attending a yoga class) at their spa on Sunday, which should be wonderful.
After that we went to Comme il Faut, which is a tango shoe store. They sit you down, ask you a few questions and then keep bringing you amazing high heels until you find some shoes that you love. What fun!
We needed a nap between shopping and our 10:30 pm dinner date, so we had what I'd call a "disco nap" (which Steve rightly corrected me about: here it's probably more of a tango nap). And then... The parilla!
We met up with one of Ann's contacts, who is a glamourous, reed-thin 47-year old Kabbalah fan. She took us out with her friend and the friend's model boyfriend (at least 20 years her junior!). It was like being out with the Maya Rudolph imitation of Donatella Versace, her silent (Spanish-speaking only) sidekick and Derek Zoolander. And then they brought us huge hunks of meat and Malbec.
I wish I could say the steak was the best I've ever had, but I do get to eat some pretty good food in the US, and my steak was a bit overcooked (so was Zoolander's: he sent it back). The atmosphere was great, though, and the heavy meal and jammy red wine was just what I needed to make me sleepy. I think they were somewhat bummed that we didn't end up going clubbing with them afterward (to Jet), but Ann and I are both excited about some shut-eye in fancy beds vs filthy American Airlines seats.
Goodnight!
Buenos dias from Buenos Aires!
After about 19 hours of travel, I've arrived at EZE, which is unfortunately not one of the more scenic airports I've been to. My flight was on time, although my friend Ann, who I'm meeting here, is apparently not having the same luck and won't be in for another hour or so.
I debated going to the hotel to wait for her, but since it's an expensive cab ride and I don't want to sleep (clarification: I *do* want to sleep, but realize that I shouldn't, so that I can adjust to the 4 hour time difference), I'm going to just tough it out and wait here at the airport cafe, typing this blog entry on my thumbs (blackberry), drinking espresso and flipping through the magazines I brought with me.
I am surprisingly relaxed, since I have this little device with me and can keep tabs on both work and my personal email accounts. I'm looking forward to a week of exploring, including shopping, eating and hopefully some pampering with a spa treatment or two.
I started reading a biography of Eva (aka Evita) Peron on the way here, which is fascinating so far, even though the writing is a bit stilted and formal at times. I admit that I know nothing about Argentine history, and am excited to learn. I wanted to get a more comprehensive book on the history of the country to read on my trip, but there wasn't a single book on it at the Barnes + Noble near my office, and even Amazon.com only listed a couple. It's quite a stark contrast to the miles of books in the history section on most European countries. I suppose that shouldn't be a surprise since the European countries have longer histories as modern states. It made me want to learn more about non-European world history, which isn't an entirely new thing for me: most of my friends and family know of my love for maps, atlases and globes, as well as my past habit of getting really into learning about random and often remote geographical locations (most notably Greenland, but I've also had phases of fascination with India and Bhutan). I have a couple of amazing world history atlases that provide a perfect tantalizing merge of these two interests. I wish I'd thought to look for the Argentinean pages in these before leaving!
I've now killed quite a bit of time with this post, so I'm going to return to my fluffy fashion magazine so that I can hopefully finish it and discard it before Ann arrives.
Much love to you all!
I debated going to the hotel to wait for her, but since it's an expensive cab ride and I don't want to sleep (clarification: I *do* want to sleep, but realize that I shouldn't, so that I can adjust to the 4 hour time difference), I'm going to just tough it out and wait here at the airport cafe, typing this blog entry on my thumbs (blackberry), drinking espresso and flipping through the magazines I brought with me.
I am surprisingly relaxed, since I have this little device with me and can keep tabs on both work and my personal email accounts. I'm looking forward to a week of exploring, including shopping, eating and hopefully some pampering with a spa treatment or two.
I started reading a biography of Eva (aka Evita) Peron on the way here, which is fascinating so far, even though the writing is a bit stilted and formal at times. I admit that I know nothing about Argentine history, and am excited to learn. I wanted to get a more comprehensive book on the history of the country to read on my trip, but there wasn't a single book on it at the Barnes + Noble near my office, and even Amazon.com only listed a couple. It's quite a stark contrast to the miles of books in the history section on most European countries. I suppose that shouldn't be a surprise since the European countries have longer histories as modern states. It made me want to learn more about non-European world history, which isn't an entirely new thing for me: most of my friends and family know of my love for maps, atlases and globes, as well as my past habit of getting really into learning about random and often remote geographical locations (most notably Greenland, but I've also had phases of fascination with India and Bhutan). I have a couple of amazing world history atlases that provide a perfect tantalizing merge of these two interests. I wish I'd thought to look for the Argentinean pages in these before leaving!
I've now killed quite a bit of time with this post, so I'm going to return to my fluffy fashion magazine so that I can hopefully finish it and discard it before Ann arrives.
Much love to you all!
Friday, May 16, 2008
Wednesday, May 14, 2008
oh bummer: it looks like ken calwell is no longer CMO at domino's. most of you know what a huge fan i was. i wonder where he's off to. i hope he doesn't turn up as CEO somewhere. it doesn't look like it from the abrupt nature of it, but i don't want to get too excited, thinking that maybe he was shitcanned...
my friend andy sent me this link to a very helpful bacon flowchart. you may want to print it so that it's easier to refer to it on a regular basis.
tonight steve and i went to see stanton moore at the amazing yoshi's in san francisco. hooray for date night!
tonight steve and i went to see stanton moore at the amazing yoshi's in san francisco. hooray for date night!
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
In case you were wondering... this week's tablehopper email list has a piece from eric rubin of the SF restaurant (and Tequilar bar) tres agaves who wants to make sure we full understand Tequila (with a capital T!):
"Unfortunately you will not receive any photos of people eating Tequila worms. It is illegal under CRT (Consuigo Regulador del Tequila) law to add any foreign objects to a bottle of Tequila. What is true is that mezcals are allowed to add foreign objects, hence agave plant larvae (aka Tequila worms), and also scorpions are found in some low quality products. Also, the word 'Tequila' is always capitalized as it is a proper noun. All denomination-of-origin products are capitalized; Camembert, Kobe, Armagnac, Scotch (technically only single malt), Tequila, Cognac, Champagne, etc. But not cheddar, rum, vodka, etc."
now you know!
"Unfortunately you will not receive any photos of people eating Tequila worms. It is illegal under CRT (Consuigo Regulador del Tequila) law to add any foreign objects to a bottle of Tequila. What is true is that mezcals are allowed to add foreign objects, hence agave plant larvae (aka Tequila worms), and also scorpions are found in some low quality products. Also, the word 'Tequila' is always capitalized as it is a proper noun. All denomination-of-origin products are capitalized; Camembert, Kobe, Armagnac, Scotch (technically only single malt), Tequila, Cognac, Champagne, etc. But not cheddar, rum, vodka, etc."
now you know!
our old friend tom seeley has a new side-gig to his teaching career: he's got a great new album of kid-friendly songs coming out this weekend with a concert at baldwin library in birmingham (michigan). apparently the album will be available on itunes very soon.
you can check out a nice article from the local paper here or his website here.
go, tom, go!!!
you can check out a nice article from the local paper here or his website here.
go, tom, go!!!
Friday, May 09, 2008
Wednesday, May 07, 2008
it has been a crazy past few weeks. we were lucky enough to get to witness two amazing weddings recently: steve's friend manish's "small" 350-person indian wedding, where he rode in on a white horse and the entire ceremony was in sanskrit; and my friend ann, who married awesome andy at an elegant party in greenwich village. hooray for weddings!
on our trip to those fab occasions we were lucky enough to see a group of friends in ann arbor, where we took over la shish and inadvertently completely trashed it (i guess that's what happens when most members of your group are accompanied by people under the age of 2). it was awesome to see everyone! it made me miss you all even more...
............................................................
i get asked quite a bit to share any youtube videos that catch my eye. here are the two latest (neither of which is very new...):
if you haven't seen this already, it explains quite eloquently why italian muslims are rare:
and if you are contemplating your next couples' dance routine, take a look at this wedding video:
on our trip to those fab occasions we were lucky enough to see a group of friends in ann arbor, where we took over la shish and inadvertently completely trashed it (i guess that's what happens when most members of your group are accompanied by people under the age of 2). it was awesome to see everyone! it made me miss you all even more...
............................................................
i get asked quite a bit to share any youtube videos that catch my eye. here are the two latest (neither of which is very new...):
if you haven't seen this already, it explains quite eloquently why italian muslims are rare:
and if you are contemplating your next couples' dance routine, take a look at this wedding video:
a former borders.com co-worker emailed me today to let me know that it was 10 years ago today that the ecommerce version of borders.com officially launched.
for a total blast from the past, have a read here.
ahhh, the ups-and-downs of .coms...
for a total blast from the past, have a read here.
ahhh, the ups-and-downs of .coms...
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